What are the benefits of using antioxidants on my skin and which ones should I use?
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been shown to create reactive oxygen species in the skin. Reactive oxygen species, also known as free radicals, can damage DNA in our cells leading to skin cancer formation. Additionally, these free radicals thin the skin by both inhibiting collagen and elastin production as well as triggering collagen and elastin degradation, result in early aging. Antioxidants are also known as free radical scavengers and can counter-act the effects of these free radicals in the skin, thereby reducing DNA damage. Antioxidants can also stabilize collagen, promote collagen production, and help reduce the signs of aging.
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbate, is the most abundant antioxidant. It is not synthesized by humans, therefore it has to be absorbed into the body. It is found in green leafy vegetables, citrus fruits, berries, cantaloupes, tomatoes, potatoes, and herbs. Vitamin C is water soluble, meaning that any excess is passed through the body in the urine. Because vitamin C is water soluble, it needs to be consumed daily, either through diet or supplementation. Vitamin C is involved in the cross-linking of collagen but also stimulates collagen production which increases skin firmness and elasticity. Vitamin C has been shown to have a strong effect on photoaged skin by decreasing the appearance of wrinkles, sunspots and improving the brightness of the skin.
Vitamin E, also known as alpha-tocopherol, is another important antioxidant. Vitamin E is found in fats and oils from meat, poultry, fish, and dairy products, as well as vegetables, seeds and cereals. Vitamin E is lipophilic, meaning that is stored in our fatty tissue and the liver. You only need a small amount of these fats and oils to get enough in your diet. Vitamin E is like vitamin C, in that it has a very important photoprotective and anti-photoaging role in the skin.
Clinical studies have shown that combining vitamin C with vitamin E and ferulic acid can diminish redness and help protect the skin from long-term damage caused by the sun. Ferulic acid is another antioxidant that reduces inflammation and pigmentation in the skin and also helps to boost the effectiveness of vitamin C and E. At Central Minnesota Dermatology, we have partnered with SKNV to bring you medical grade vitamin C, vitamin B, vitamin E and ferulic acid serums (Secret Super Serum and Cool, Calm & Luminous) that will help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, decrease the appearance of dark spots and improve the brightness and texture of the skin resulting in a more radiant appearance of the skin.
Vitamin A is the final antioxidant that we will discuss. It is found in egg yolks, fish liver and meat, as well as darkly colored fruits and vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and tomatoes. There are three derivatives of vitamin A: retinol, retinal and tretinoin. Retinol is available over the counter to treat photodamaged skin and aging skin. Retinal is a less irritating form and is important for vision. Tretinoin is the prescription form and reverses the effects of photodamage and aging in half the time as retinol. Tretinoin interferes with enzymes that work to breakdown collagen and it also promotes the production of new collagen. Retinoids are now considered the “gold standard” for topical anti-aging products. It not only minimizes fine lines and wrinkles, it reduces the roughness of the skin, and improves uneven pigmentation in photoaged skin. Despite its well know benefits for anti-aging, tretinoin can be irritating to the skin and not tolerated by a lot of people. Depending on the skin type, a cream formulation may be better tolerated than a gel and a lower concentration may be needed to start. At Central Minnesota Dermatology, we will work with you to find the right combination of topical tretinoin that is right for you. We also have an antioxidant-rich calming serum that can be used with your tretinoin to counteract the redness and irritation. Additionally, we offer a compounded product from SKNV that combines tretinoin 0.05% with niacinamide 4%, hyaluronic acid, collagen and Red vine eco to boost the anti-aging effects.
References:
- Rinnerthaler, J. Bischof, M. Karolin Streubel, A. Trost, K. Richter. Oxidative Stress in Aging Human Skin. Biomolecules.2015 Jun; 5(2): 545–589.
